Day 13 Fri. Nov. 30

"The City that Never Sleeps"

After a delicious breakfast, especially the porridge, at the Gateway Hotel in Madurai, located on the hill overlooking the city of 6 million people, we departed for the most famous temple in town called, “Meenakshi, which is dedicated to Lord Shiva.  The temple is one of the 10 wonders of the modern world and had its beginnings in 500 AD.  It covers 52 acres right in the middle of the city.  It is like a city within a city with 14 magnificient Gopurams or towers elaborately sculptured out of brick, mortar and painted in beautiful colours, and decorated with 1000s of celestial and animal figures.  The city passed a law to restore the towers every 14 years.  An aerial view of the temple reveals the shape of a lotus which is India’s national flower.  It was originally built to celebrate the marriage of 2 gods, Shiva and goddess Meenakshi,  a very independent goddess with 3 breasts.   Even though her parents tried to arrange a marriage for her, she resisted until she met Shiva.  She knew Shiva was the right partner for her because her 3rd breast disappeared instantly.  

We entered the East Gate and soon discovered the numerous art displays everywhere.  There is a famous ritual re-enacted every evening where Meenakshi, when ready for her husband, would invite Lord Shiva to the marriage bed.  The priests would carry Shiva from his temple to Meenakshi’s temple.  The crowds and crowds of thousands of people follow this procession, trying to get a glimpse of Shiva.  There is a lot of pushing and shoving.  Then, Shiva, after being with Meenakshi, is carried back to his temple where he is washed and powdered, decorated and fed for the day ahead.  

Our tour guide eventually got our group to the centre of the complex, where there was a golden flag pole which waves above the city whenever there is a festival taking place.  (which is almost always).  Another very impressive area of the temple city was the very large green bathing pool surrounded by many steps and 4 of the tall multi-coloured temple towers.  There were many people worshipping at every turn and lots of newly married couples adorned in jasmin flowers photoed by lots of family and friends.  One young student wanted his picture taken with Robert for his resume.

           We did walk around the busy temple city and checked out the shops while Kathy and Milla rode around the perimeter in a golf cart.  It was like a circus performance dominated by hundreds of hawkers selling everything imaginable.  Our guide arranged for all of us to ride in our own rickshaw for about an hour and parade up and down the busy streets.  For a short time, we all felt like royalty.

Our last stop was at the large yellow and white palace where the local people could come and present their requests and complaints to those in charge i.e. Maharaja or city politicians.  Today, this large forum is used for celebrations.

 light my fire

 2 Canadian tourists in a golf cart

 our hotel filled with ghosts

 a peacock and a peahen

 Kathy's rickshaw driver was the oldest

  Milla in her rickshaw

 student getting his resume photo

  young couple just before their marriage

 rob with Milla, Sue, and Kathy always behind him

  Sue and Milla just before their bath.

  public pool for bathing prior to temple visits

 one of 14 temple towers 9 storeys high

   a marriage in the Temple

We returned to our hotel to relax around the pool and watch the peacocks.  Our Gateway Raj home hotel, built in 1890, has the atmosphere of colonial British days gone by.  Kathy could feel the presence of ghosts everywhere.  Before we left the poolside for dinner, we chatted with the man in charge of the fitness and pool area.  He told us that the forests around the estate were filled with snakes such as cobras and vipers and lots of of mongoose.  He told us that he even had a pet mongoose and parrot at home.